As I continue reflecting on the garden year so far we did have some great harvests …
Eggplants, no water, no problem.
Love the white eggplants. They look like large duck eggs so not too big and not too small. We got loads, made dishes with them all summer and into fall. Have some cooked and frozen too. If you have a place with loads of sun and little water, your eggplants will be happy.
If you have an area that gets loads of sun and not much water, consider putting eggplants there. I did water them occasionally, but not that often and they were super happy.
Overwintered broccoli, hardier than expected.
Wow, just didn’t protect the broccoli plants we got in late. Yet got a super early broccoli harvest, even with temps down into the single digits off and on for a couple weeks.
We also grow Belstar and De Ciccio green heading types.
Melons, melons, melons!
Remember when I didn’t water the potatoes and got no harvest. Well, the opposite happened with the melons this year. Both melon patches were in places that got watered allot and we had loads of melons. Water folks, plants love it.
That is all my Autumn musings for now. If more useful lessons come to mind, I’ll be sure to pass them on. For now, happy gardneing and check out all our resources if you haven’t yet. – Debby
Okay, folks, here are some things that did work this year.
Lets go back to those pole beans, they were Christmas Limas, one of our favorites. We got LOADS, I am seriously so many beans. We have had five means from them, have enough for another 8 or so meals of them fresh and a half gallon dried for winter. So .. eve thought we had to repair the deer fence – we got load of luscious beans!
Tomatoes! Have you ever been sick of too many fresh tomatoes? I didn’t think it was possible, but it is. Gratefully, everyone loves them, so they are easy to give away.
Have been experimenting with pruning the last few years and have gotten it to keeping two to three leaders and pinching out the suckers. One leader – they were too tall to harvest. Not pruning enough suckers and they didn’t get enough air flow so we got diseases.
Continuing my consideration on what didn’t work so well this year. There were a couple things I really did know, but life and laziness can sometimes happen to not such good outcomes. A couple of these lessons are:
3.Blowing off watering potatoes. Okay, they were in the back, the farthest away from the water and I just got lazy, didn’t want to drag a hose back there, my bad since we got no potatoes. They have always been a super simple crop, but like other plants, when it doesn’t rain for a month, they need water.
Lesson: Water, duh, don’t get lazy about it if you want potatoes.
Was so bad, there was nothing to photo, but here is an inspirational one from a normal harvest..
4.Getting plants in late. So this year, it took a long time to get some of the garden beds cleaned out and so some of the pepper plants went in super late. They were just getting going pumping out peppers when it was time to pull them out to make room for fall and winter crops. Granted, lack of rain for a month didn’t help.
Lesson: If life happens and it gets late, if you have your plants already, perhaps have grown them yourself like I have, then you’ll want to plant to leave them as long as possible and potentially forgo using that bed for fall and winter, or know you’ll get less of a crop. If you don’t have your plants yet, consider short days-to-maturity varieties to get your fall and winter garden in on time.
Sitting in my office on a Tuesday in autumn, I begin reflecting on the passing gardening year. As I consider what worked and what didn’t, it occured to me there are lessons here that may be useful for you so here you go …
What didn’t work:
1.Pole beans too close to the deer fence. Yikes, the pole beans grew over 15 feet and jumped onto the deer fence, seems okay, until a big wind storm came. The weight of the beans took down a section of deer fence in a big wind.
Lesson: keep space between your pole beans and fence, or trim pole beans away from fence.
2. Watch the last day of school. If your garden is accessible, hang out there the last day of school. Had someone/s throw spring cabbages around the garden the evening of the last of school at a display garden I manage. It was heartbreaking to see them all over the garden, such a waste of food. There was vandalism all over the area, which is normally very safe and benign. Several folks said it was Jr. High boys. This is a good reason to get your children and grandchildren involed in growing food and understanding what goes into food production, so they have respect and don’t waste.
Lesson: If your garden is accessable on known potential vandalism days, like the last day of school, shedule a pot luck, or hang out there, or rotate folks being in the garden into the evening.
Check back for the more lessons from this year and have an awesome day! Debby
Do you love soups in the winter? I sure do, a pot of soup on the stove heating up the house with its yummy smells filling the air. Dried beans are a must have for winter soups.
Today is a pleasantly cool rainy fall day, perfect for listening to some favorite tunes, enjoying a cup of tea and shelling beans, humming and dancing while the shelled beans pile up in a bowl, ready to be planted next spring and eaten this winter.
When I shell dried beans, I keep some of the biggest, plumpest out for planting the following year. The rest are put into jars for eating.
There are literally hundreds of varieties of dried beans, so choose the ones you like to eat. Are you into Minestrone soup, then grow Cannellini beans. Into nachos, then grow pinto or black beans. Love making chili, grow some Kidney beans. Beyond these pretty well known favorites there are loads of other types to try to make you own unique winter soup.
A couple lesser known of favorites I like to grow are Vermont Cranberry and Christmas Limas. Vermont Cranberry is a bush bean, where Christmas Limas are pole beans. They are both beautiful and both make your soup broth a rich warm burgundy color.
You can find lots of varieties of dried beans that grow as bush beans or pole beans, depending on which you prefer to grow. I like a bit of both. Bush beans yield faster, but I get a larger harvest from pole beans. Check the Days to Maturity on the varieties that look interesting to you. This will tell you if you’ll have enough time to grow them until they dry on the plant. If you are in the south, this is usually not an issue. Northern gardeners whose number of hot summer days are shorter may want to stick to shorter days to maturity bush types.
When looking at seed catalogs for bean varieties, note that some beans are good both fresh and dried. This can be a good use of garden space, as you can have a round or two of fresh green beans, then let the rest go for dried beans. This way you get two types of beans from one plant!
Bon appetit, I’m off to enjoy my first cool weather soup made with home grown beans.
There are several reasons for our participation in this local annual event:
First off, we are passionate about spreading the word of growing your own food. Gardening is a great way to get outside, off our computers for a few, and get back to our roots – sometimes literally – in the case of carrots and radishes. Grow Your Health is a great venue to talk gardens and empower people to garden.
The festival is also about local food. This local festival gets community members together with local farms and healthy food providers in a fun environment. Connecting folks with our local farmers and practitioners enriches our local economy. It also allows each to expand their community support system. Families supporting family farms was part of how this country was built and these relationship nurture the heart of everyone involved.
The third focus of the festival is wellness, not only of our bodies through various support systems, but also the wellness of the planet that supports us all. The movie we are showing this year, GMO OMG talks primarily about the potential effects of genetically modified organisms in our food, but the business of growing these has major impacts on the wellness of planet earth.
Helping the next generations learn about healthy practices for themselves and their planet, how to connect with the planet through gardening and knowing where their food comes from is part of the family value this festival can provide. Each year we strive to make the event better for families to attend, more fun for children and provide everyone who attends an enriching community event.
Come out and join us, Saturday, March 28, 10:00 am – 5:30 pm.
Stop by the Prior Unity Garden Booth and sign up for the raffle to win some prizes.
As part of the class lineup, Russell will be part of a Gardening Q&A at 11:00 am and Debby will be teaching Small Space Gardening at 1:30 pm.
We’ll also have spring plants and other cool stuff.
The easy answer is to purchase your seed from one of the companies on our Recommended Seed Company List. This works great if you have come to trust our process of evaluating companies.
I am not an “activist”, it is has never been my interest or my bent, yet I do “vote with my dollar” and so choose to support companies who have the values I consider important. To that end, each year I research companies, read a pile of seed catalogs and compare varieties and plant lists of those folks I know and trust and those I don’t.
It has become clear that in addition to the current 13 criteria we use to evaluate a company, two more need to be added. Here are our additional criteria and why we added them. See the first 13 criteria.
Does the company sell varieties that are owned by companies who engage in genetic modification of seeds?
One company in particular, who was on our list for years, has staunchly continued to offer a small percentage of varieties owned by Monsanto. Granted, most of these varieties were not bred by Monsanto, but were bred and owned by companies who Monsanto bought a few years ago. For those like us, who do not want to support companies who engage in genetic modification of seed, the act of buying from a company who buys from a company who engages in genetic modification of seed, is indirectly supporting companies who engage genetic seed modification. Prior Unity Garden does not support this activity. Therefore any company who buys seed from companies who create GMO seed will not make our list, even if they have signed the Safe Seed Pledge.
You may be thinking, but if they signed the Safe Seed Pledge, then they are not selling GMOs, right ? Generally speaking, you are correct, they are not selling genetically modified seed, but they can still sign the Pledge and sell seed that is not genetically modified from companies who make GMO seed. Doing this practice now excludes a company from being on our recommended seed company list.
Does the company actually grow the varieties they sell?
There are ‘seed houses’ who are resellers of seed only, buying seed wholesale and reselling it. They may grow some of it, but do not really have field trials, so are not really in touch with the varieties they are offering.
We have found the seed quality and reliability from these companies to swing wildly and these companies do not have people you can talk with about growing specific varieties they offer. While this may be fine for some folks, we find it frustrating when evaluating specific varieties for growing traits our clients have requested. In effect, you become the testers. Because we want to recommend the highest quality seed companies how offer the highest quality seed, we will not be putting companies on our list who do grow all or most of the varieties whey offer. These companies simply cannot support what they sell to the high degree other companies can.
In some cases, a company will offer seed from a variety of local farms and this is a practice we love seeing as it supports small local farms and seed. In this case, the seed house may not trial every variety, but their partner farms are growing seed and this practice has proven to be an excellent marker of quality seed, in part because the farm’s name is on the seed. These companies do make our list. Granted, most of them also test all or most of the varieties they offer.
Who owned the company?
As large Agribusinesses buy out smaller companies, this question is becoming more important. It used to be seed companies be handed down through generations of a family. Now, it is good to know and sometimes difficult to find out. Often the Agribusiness does not want their ownership known.
Call the company, see what is written in the catalog and website. The point here is avoiding supporting agribusinesses who engage in generic modification of seed.
Companies who are owned by large agriculture businesses will usually sell varieties they own, so knowing what those varieties are, helps you discern if you want to support that business or not.
Several years ago we planted open pollinated Red Kale seed we bought from Territorial Seed Company. In the years since, this kale; and none of the others we grow, have naturalized at Prior Unity Garden. We started allowing some of the plants to go to seed, after having overwintered. Spring planted, we harvest leaves all spring, summer and fall. After letting these same plants rest over the winter, we harvest a little in very early spring before allowing them to go to seed. The resulting seed has proven to be extremely hardy.
We start kale indoors in flats in February and August. The February started plants will be hardened off to be transplanted out in March. The August started plants will be hardened off to go out in September or October.
Seed can also be direct sown in spring and late summer to early fall and germinates best between 55º & 75º F. Plant ¼ and inch deep.
Spring planting gives you luscious greens in spring and early summer. Late summer or early fall sowing will give you greens until the plants go dormant for the cold of winter. Some traditionally say, plant fall crops after the 4th of July, although we find there are still too many bugs around and it is too hot to start them outdoors then. Starting them indoors where it is cool and bug free works best for plants you want to plant in fall. The beauty of fall crops is you have less bugs trying to eat your kale before you do. Like some other cole crops; think collards, their leaves will sweeten up with light frost, because the various types of sugars in the plants increase the plant’s tolerance to freezing. Producing sugar is the plant’s natural freeze protection.
Winter & Overwintered plants
Kale will overwinter naturally here without protection, although they will not continue to grow. Plants grown with the protection of a hoop house, cold frame or greenhouse can continue to grow during the winter months due to warmer temps of the enclosed environment.
Overwintered plants will tend to bolt sooner in the warmth of spring than spring sown plants. This is why overwintered plants are good to use to save your own seed.
We prefer to transplant seedlings when they have four or five true leaves that are at least two inches long. If your seedlings have stretched for light indoors, and have really long stems, you can bury part of the stem when transplanting. Do not bury as deep as you would tomatoes, but bury up to a half of the stem to give you a bit stronger stemmed plant.
We companion plant our kale, giving each kale plant about a one foot area.
What Kales Like & Where to put them in your garden
Kale are cool weather crops that like lots of nitrogen in the soil. If you have an area you have built up with so much green matter, manure or compost, it grows huge tomato plants with hardly any tomatoes, it is a good candidate location for kale and other leaf crops.
If you are growing kale in cold months, give it a place with sun. If you want your kale to hang in there year round, plant them in a place what they get shade in the hot part of a day in summer. We plant some of our kales in areas that are completely shady in summer. The baby plants get plenty of early spring sun before the leaves are full on the trees, and again as the leaves fall in autumn.
To save your own kale seed, let the plants go to flower. They will look beautiful in your garden with tall spires of little bright yellow flowers. Allow the seed heads to form and begin to dry on the plant. When the seedpods are almost dry, but not yet busting open scattering their little round black seeds, carefully cut the stalks and put them, seed heads down, into a paper bag. Place them in a cool dry place and allow them to continue to dry and lets the seeds fall into the bag. Keep seed refrigerated until you are ready to plant them. If you want your kale to naturalize, allow the plants to go to seed and fall from the plants wherever the wind takes them around your garden.
The two main pests we have had are cabbage moths and harlequin bugs. If you go out one day and literally overnight your kales are almost gone, look for green caterpillars, the color of green kale leaves, or for tell tail black poop near the center of the plant where the tender newest leaves used to be. These are the larve of the cabbage moth, the little white moths that flit so harmless looking around your garden as spring warms the days. The most used organic control is keeping your baby plants under row covers to keep the moths off your baby plants. The months want to lay their eggs on your kale (and other cole crops). The other most used organic control is Bacillus thuringiensis, found in a product called Dipel® DF, which is OMRI listed for organic use. Crop rotation helps to some degree, although in small home scale gardens, this helps to a smaller degree than on a larger farm, garden or homestead.
Harlequin bugs are a type of stink bug. They may be beautiful, but they will literally suck the life out of your kale. Hand picking them as soon as you see them is the best natural control. We keep buckets of slightly soapy water around the kales to put the harlequin bugs and green caterpillars in as we hand pick them.
One other pest occasionally shows up on our kale – white flies. They started to show up when we started getting unusually hot springs with little air flow. The best way to control is with Safer’s® Insecticidal Soap soon as you see the very first ones. If you catch them early, you can get rid of them, miss them and all your kale with have a little white cloud of them when you touch the plants.
The good news ? Deer, squirrels and chipmunks do not eat kale or other cole crops !
Kale is extremely high in Vitamins A and C. It also has vitamins B6 and K, and several minerals including magnesium and high amounts of calcium. It is also a good source of copper, potassium, iron, manganese, and phosphorus. Kale is low in calories, has no fat and is high fiber, making it good for everyone.
Most people think of kale is one of those savory crops you cook a long time, like collards. We think of it as the ultimate raw energy food and love them as a staple in raw green smoothies.
To make a green smoothie, put some fresh filtered water in a strong blender, such as a Vitamix® or Blendtec. Add your favorite fruit and a few leaves of kale and enjoy an energy and nutrient packed lunch ! You can make them ahead of time and take them anywhere, to work, hiking etc. Use bananas, mango or avocado to make your smoothie creamy. We love Banana/Mango/Pineapple in summer. Berry rich ones include blackberries, blueberries, strawberries, raspberries, cherries, gooseberries and a few currents for tartness and high vitamin C content. In the fall, apples and pears make super sweet smoothies and we found that peach/nectarine and blackberry combos are divine in summer ! A strong blender is needed to break down those strong kale leaves and the reward is getting your dark green leafy veggies in a yummy sweet way !