🍒Top Tips for Growing Cherry Trees – Part 1 🍒

Growing cherries in your home orchard can be rewarding, yet I find many people don’t try them.

Sweet or Tart? Choosing Cherries to Grow in Your Garden

When I talk with most people they want to grow sweet cherries, yet there are some compelling reasons to grow tarts one too.

In this post I’ll talk about reasons to grow both sweet and tart cherries and talk varieties.

Let’s start with those luscious sweet cherries.

3 Reasons to Choose Sweet Cherries for Your Garden

Who can resist the sweet juiciness of a ripe cherry?  I’ll bet if you are reading this post, you look forward to those yummy little gems of flavor.

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The first reason so grow sweet cherries in your garden may be obvious, but it is worth saying, because you ❤️ LOVE sweet cherries.

I do!

I often ask people what they like to eat, because growing what you like to eat is a great way to choose what to grow. If you do love them and I confess I do, then if you are putting some fruit trees into your home orchard, sweet cherries are one crop to consider.

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Cherries can be pricey so if you want to eat allot of them, growing your own will save you money. 

A new bare root cherry tree may cost you $60 or $65 dollars, but if you consider a bag of fresh cherries tends to cost $7 or more, you can see how fast you’ll get your money’s worth and how much money you can save.

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Cherries are one of the “Dirty Dozen”, the group of foods that are grown with the most chemicals in the US according to The Environmental Working Group

One great way to avoid health issues is by eating and growing organically. Therefore, growing your own cherries can save you money in the long run by helping to keep you out of the doctor’s office.

What about tart cherries? 

3 Reasons to Grow Tart Cherries in Your Garden

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Are you a fan of cherry pie?  How about cherry jam, tarts, ice cream and dried cherries for salads or cookies?

Tart cherries are the stars when it comes to extending your cherry harvest. These are they type that are used to make pie filling and jams. 

Your investment in your tree, keeps you from having to buy cherry products  when fresh cherries are hard to find.

By canning your own cherry pie filling and jams to use the rest of the year, you extend your harvest and save even more money.

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Dried cherries are wonderful in cookies and salads.

They pair well with walnuts and goat cheese in salads.  Dried tart cherries make great additions to cookies. Think cherry chocolate chip – yummy.

They are super simple to dry with a dehydrator – which is a great investment to preserve all kinds of harvest from your garden,

You can make your own trail or snack mix by adding them to nuts and seeds and even chocolate chips.

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When growing cherries, most varieties need a pollinator, so if you grow a sweet and a tart cherry that are good pollinators, then you get the best of both worlds.

Sweet Cherry Varieties

The two most famous varieties are Bing and Rainier. 

When I was a kid, the neighbors down the street had a Bing cherry tree and my friend and I got to climb it and pick as many as we wanted. 

More than once I went home with a tummy ache from eating too many, yet it didn’t stop my love of them.

Bing was introduced in 1875 and Rainer is a good choice for dry climates. If you are in the wetter climate, consider White Gold instead which resists cracking is wetter weather.

For red consider Stella which requires only 400 hours below 45F to successfully produce fruit. 

Lapins has large dark red fruit and is widely adapted across the US.  It needs only 500 chill hours.

For a black variety, if you are up north, consider the heirloom Black Tartarian.  It was introduced in England in 1794 and requires 700 plus chill hours, making it a good choice for those in colder climates.

Tart Cherry Varieties

Montmorency is the most well-known pie cherry. 80% of pie cherries grown in the US and Canada are Montmorency. It does need more the 500 chill hours.

English Morello cherries are another well-known variety that needs 400 to 500 chilling hours. They have deep red flesh and wine red juice.

How about a Sweet Tart Cherry?

A sweet-tart cross is Carmine Jewel give you the best of both worlds.

Kansas Sweet is believed to be another sweet-tart cross. Sweeter than most tart cherries, but with a nice twang. This only needs 300 plus chill hours. A good choice for more southern growers.

Cherry Tree Pollination

Some varieties do need a pollinator and some don’t, this is why there is often confusion.

Traditionally, cherry varieties have been self-pollinating, yet growing them in proximity to another variety, that blooms at the same time would yield more fruit.

This is why you will see trees listed as ‘Early, “Mid” and “Late” season.  Start with a variety you know you want to grow (see my last post for ideas).  Then look for a variety that blooms at the same time, be it, early, mid or late.

Variety listings from a good company will list the bloom time and also tell you if they are self-pollinating or not.  One of my favorite places to buy bare roots trees is Raintree Nursery.  For each variety they have a list of recommended pollinators, making is easier for you to choose.

Chill Hours & Hardiness for Fruit Trees

2023 USDA Planting Zone map

When choosing your cherry tree varieties, you’ll need to consider both the chill hours of the variety and your growing zone.

Chill hours are not the same as your hardiness zone. Cherries are generally hardy in growing zones 4 though 9.  Do look at the variety descriptions to be sure you are in the hardiness zone and have the chill hours for the variety you are considering growing.

Cherries are generally considered a cooler climate crop, vs peaches that are a warmer season crop, and citrus which is warmer still.

That said, there are cherry varieties that need less what is called “chill hours”. 

In horticulture, chill hours refer to the total number of hours between 32 and 45°F that an area receives on average each winter. These are notes as “CU” (chill units). Chill hours are essential for certain plants to break dormancy and set fruit come spring.

Chill hours don’t need to be consecutive as they are noted as the cumulative total hours in that temperature range occurring between November and March. Hours below 32°F don’t count. And for every day that reaches over 60°F, one half-hour of chilling hours is subtracted from the total.

Cherry Tree Sizes

Choosing the size of your cherry tree is an important factor when deciding what to buy.

At this time there are four general size categories of cherry trees, with some sub-sizes depending on who you buy from.  

The four main sizes are Mini-dwarf, Dwarf, Semi-dwarf and Standard.

Mini-dwarf are 6 – 8’.  These are great for growing in containers, which makes them highly portable if you are planning on moving or have a small space.

Dwarf are 8-16’ and Semi-Dwarf are 12 – 22’. These two are what I tend to see most home growers buy that have a fenced in yard to keep out the deer. Because they are not that tall, deer can teach the entire tree.

Standard trees are 15 – 30’. The advantage of larger trees is that part of the tree is above deer browse level. You also, get more fruit, so if you have the space, they can be a great choice.

You can see there is overlap in size, this is why some companies will further break down the four categories.

Tree size is determined by its root stock.

Each variety can be grafted onto different rootstocks.

When buying bare root online, you can choose what size you want for most varieties. When buying from a local nursery, you have more limitations.

Which brings us to …

Potted or bare root cherry trees?

line of fruit trees in a nursery

There are pros and cons to getting trees both ways.

Potted Cherry Trees

Pros:

  • You can find them locally, so you don’t have to wait for a tree to arrive.

Cons:

  • They are significantly more expensive than a bare root tree. For example, a 6’ tree in a container locally tends to cost an average of 1/3 or more than a bare root tree.
  • You have less variety choices.
  • You have less choices in tree size.
  • You can choose what nursery to buy from.
  • They acclimate slower in your garden. This is because they are used to being in their little potted environment, and hesitate to go outside their comfort zone.

Bare Root Cherry Trees

Pros:

  • They are less expensive.
  • You have lots more variety choices.
  • You have more choices for tree size.
  • You choose what nursery to buy from.
  • They acclimate faster to your garden because they need that wonderful soil you have made for them to they thrive.  They have been taken out of their soil and their roots pruned to ship them to you, so they are super happy to get growing when put in the ground!

Cons:

  • You need to plant them when you get them.

In the next post, I’ll talk about the best way to plant your cherry trees, plus pest control for your cherries.

Growing Great Blueberries

Enjoy home grown blueberries
Blueberries ripening on the bush

Blueberries are very satisfying and easy to grow.

They can cost a pretty hefty amount at the store and are really easy to grow here in the mid-Atlantic area of the US.

Blueberries are native here, so even if you choose to grow cultivar varieties which produce larger fruit like I do, you can be assured they like this climate.

Blueberries are beautiful in the landscape, having white or pink flowers in spring and bright red, yellow or bronze foliage in autumn.

There are two types of blueberries: high bush & low bush.   Low bush are generally grown in northern climates like Maine and Canada. High bush are generally grown further south and the ones mostly grown in Virginia gardens.

A question I am often asked is: Should I buy them in a container or bare root?

Either is fine.

It is best to only have bare root plants shipped vs. container grown because shipping container grown plants is pricey.

Blueberry in autumn.
Blueberry in autumn.

Bare root plants are grown in the nursery for a few years (a good company will tell you how old the plants will be that you are ordering) dug up in the dormant months, kept cool and shipped in spring.

Container grown plants would be obtained locally.

Currently, we do not have a good source of container grown blueberries locally. The nursery we liked  is going out of business because the owners are retiring. Many local nurseries sell blueberry bushes for short,  limited time in early spring. Be sure and ask them if their plants are sprayed with

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Heavy fruit load not yet ripe

loads of chemicals that could kill your pollinators, including the neonicotinoids that have been so much in the news lately.

To get a great selection, we recommend ordering bare root from RainTree Nursery. They sell 2-to-3 year old blueberry plants that are good sized, at least 18” tall and bushy.

When buying blueberry plants, be sure to buy at least two varieties for pollination. Also check the ripening dates, choosing two bushes each of three varieties can extend your harvest and give you a very healthy crop.

Blueberry bush in bloom
Blueberry bush in bloom

Popular varieties include the old time ‘Jersey’, which has bright yellow leaves in autumn and ‘Bluecrop’ which has red fall color.  Another yellow fall colored variety is ‘Bluegold’, which is popular with smaller space gardeners because the bushes are more compact at 4’ high. Most highbush blueberries are 6’ high. ‘Bluegold’ and ‘Earliblue’ can start your blueberry season off, then follow on with ‘Blueray’ for mid season and ‘Elliot’ or ‘Libery’ for late season fruit.   We also really like ‘Patriot’ and ‘Northland’ as they has done very well for us.

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Blueberries that made it to the bowl

Container gardeners might like to try the cute ‘Top Hat’ that only grows to 18”. You can choose a variety that grows to 4’ for container culture and use a larger container.

In ground, space your blueberries as far apart as their listed mature height.  So, if a variety is listed as 6′ high, plant them 6′ apart, or a little farther, if you have room, for good aeration and light.

Three important notes about growing blueberries:

  1. Choose a sunny location. Although blueberries grow in partial shade, they need full sun to produce lots of berries.
  2. Plant them separate from your annual vegetable garden because they have different soil requirements. Blueberries want acidic soil, unlike your annual veggies.  A good mulch for blueberries is pine needles.
  3. Plant your blueberries where they will naturally get plenty of water because they are shallow rooted plants. You can dig swales to capture water for your blueberries in heavy rains.

One last note, invest in a few post and bird netting so you get your crop instead of the birds.

Hope this inspires you to try growing some blueberries at home, whether you want to eat them fresh or make summer blueberry ice cream, they are an easy and satisfying perennial crop to grow.

3 Garden Design Ideas – Foundations of Organic Gardening Info Series

Put your herb garden in close proximity to your kitchen.
Put your herb garden in close proximity to your kitchen.

1. Think Permaculture Zones – The concept is simple, put the stuff you use most, or need to access most often, closest to your house. Put the stuff you don’t need to access much farthest away. So, herbs in easy access from the kitchen and fruit tress farther away since you only need to tend them a few times a year and harvest when the fruit is in season.

2. Maximize how you use your space – Layers are a good way to look at using your annual garden space to its maximum potential. Roots grow down, bushy plants like tomatoes are in the middle layer and vines like cucumbers and pole beans can climb.

3. Mix it up – Not sure what will be successful, try a mix of a small raised bed, a few plants in the ground and a few containers. Try the same type plant in each and see what works best for you.

Want more help turning your yard into a productive food oasis ?  You’ll get all the info you need in The Foundation of Organic Garden Course classes and workshops.

 

 

Yummy home grown figs can go farther away from the house
Yummy home grown figs can go farther away from the house

Hoogle Bed Update – Beauty is food too !

After building the bed (see last post) Russell built a bamboo border with extra bamboo we had around, lined with various materials unused by someone else.

(Bamboo is often easy to come by – if you see a stand in someone’s yard, knock on the door and ask if you can take some – they are usually grateful !)

We shifted the dirt to fill the box and then Russell put old decking someone was throwing away around the top edge to finish it off.  The result is our long term soil building self watering in ground bed with a finished beautiful look.

We planted potatoes and flower bulbs and marigolds as an experiment.  The potato foliage has died back, looking like it we would expect in the fall.  Potatoes in other areas of the garden still have green foliage.

Beauty is food too and this bed feeds us with a finished bed we enjoy each time we walk out front or come home – plus – great flowers we enjoy outside and cut for inside too !

Build Soil & an In-Ground Self-Watering Bed – Hugelkulture (Hoogle Culture) Bed

Hugelkulture is pronounced, “Hoogle Culture”  in English.  This type of  bed is a great way to build a bed of excellent soil over a a few years.  In the meantime it can sort of act as a self watering in ground bed.

Here are four videos showing how we built one in our front yard.

Part 1:

Part 2:

Part 3:

Part 4, Wrap up:

Steps to building the bed:

  1. Dig out a bed, or define the area you want to use.
  2. Layer in logs that will rot over time and retain water in meantime.  Remember do not use wood that resists rotting.
  3. Add compost, leaves, shredded office paper, coffee grounds, sticks, twigs, grass clippings (not from lawns that use chemical lawn companies).
  4. You can also add lime and rock dust.
  5. Add some dirt on top for planting while the bed slowly rots

Why do this ?

  • To build quality soil
  • To use things from our landscape when a tree has fallen, or we have done tree maintenance.
  • To create a raised bed situation that functions as a self-watering bed because the logs are holding water while they rot.